on the road less travelled in Ireland and france

On a cold morning in autumn, Fran and Conal decided to venture onto the Waterford Greenway. They came armed with hats, scarves and gloves.

By Conal Healy

Monday, October 16, 2023 (8am): There are excellent reasons to visit Ireland in the off-season. There are usually fewer visitors, there is no need to rush and the weather can be less-awful.

It is an interesting theory that summer is the best time to visit Ireland – July and August are usually regarded as Summer.

Summer in Ireland can mean warm-ish days and rain. Lots of rain. I was told that in 2023, the rain started on July 1 and ended around August 30. That is the holiday season in Ireland.

I know of one Irish teacher who suggested giving the children of Ireland their long, school summer holidays in May and September – and keeping them in school (and out of the rain) during July and August.

A change in the climate suggests that May and June (spring) are the months when the sun decides to shine on Ireland. The months of September and October (autumn) are also associated with long days of sunshine.

Back to the off-season.

This morning Fran and I are in Kilmacthomas. This is a small village in County Waterford, in the sometimes called the Sunny South-East of Ireland. This is because this part of Ireland usually gets more sunshine, compared to the storm lashed west coast.

The previous night Fran and I had arrived in Kilmeadan, County Waterford, after leaving Bray (via Enniscorthy). Kilmeadan is more of an idea, than a town than a village – the highlights for us were the pub and the local store.

We had been a long few days on the road, we checked in to our Bed and Breakfast accommodation and went to the local pub for Sunday night dinner, a few pints and back to sleep.

The local pub, Donnacha’s, was almost full when we pushed open the front door. It seemed everyone in the district had decided to avoid the hassle of a Sunday family roast … and had opted for a pub dinner instead. We joined the locals in having the Sunday roast … and had difficulty finishing the mountain of food.

After a good night’s sleep (and a hearty breakfast at the guest house), Fran and I set off the Kilmacthomas.

The plan for today was the cycle the Waterford Greenway. We had dropped into Waterford City the day before to check out the head of the bike trail, and to look at hiring a bike for today. That was a particularly disappointing experience – a few simple signs marked the start of the 46km cycleway.

Opened in 2017, the Waterford Greenway (also called the Deise Greenway) provides a glorious car-free pathway stretching all the way from historic Waterford City to the sea-side town of Dungarvan in west Co. Waterford.

The Comeragh Mountains provide a dramatic backdrop to a breathtaking journey across eleven bridges, three viaducts, through a 400m-long tunnel, along the lush banks of the River Suir, all the way to the beaches of Waterford’s famed Copper Coast.

Fran and I had decided to join the greenway at Kilmacthomas. We arrived early on a cold autumn morning. Hats, scarves and gloves were the order of the day.

Your average Irish village is not a hive of industry at 7.30am, and Kilmacthomas was no exception.

The Google Machine had told us that we could hire bikes here – we wandered the quiet village streets looking for the suggested address. It was fruitless.

There was a shop with a sign offering bike hire – but it seems closed for the winter. (Ah the joys of travelling in the off-season.)

We eventually found an open bike hire shop a short way out of town, at the Old Work House.

Waterford Greenway Bike Hire were great, helpful and very accommodating. Within minutes Fran and I were cruising through the Irish countryside under gun-metal grey skies.

In sunshine, the sun would have sparked the landscape – the small-field landscape stretching to the a mountain backdrop. On a sometimes bleak mid-October morning it was all a bit “same-y” – hedgerows line the bitumen cycle way. Occasionally there would be a break which allowed us to see the countryside beyond.

There were places were we dismounted to admire a Marian shrine, or a view from the viaduct, or a child’s toy fairy installation but otherwise it was a tad boring. For me, the highlight was venturing through the 400-metre long Ballyvoyle Tunnel.

It has to be said that the tunnel is of genuine architectural interest. I am told the tunnel has retained all its 1878 features: elliptical-headed openings, ashlar voussoirs, barrel vault… The tunnel is beautiful, very well preserved and nature has invaded in places, adding to its charm.

Given the wet summer endured in Ireland in 2023, a raincoat is recommended if you are passing through the tunnel.

Fran and I cycled as far as the sea. Sat on a bench and broke out some snacks. A few other cyclists ventured past – bound for the seaside town of Dungarvan. The view was pleasant, there was rain on the way, we ate our food and began (the slightly uphill) cycle back.

Yes, we both agreed, it was good to ride the Waterford Greenway … might have been nicer in sunshine. Maybe May? Or June? Or September.

FOOTNOTE: Later that day, Fran and I drove to the end of the trail at Dungarvan – and found the terminus as underwhelming at the Waterford start. Go figure.

 A SPOT OF HISTORY

The Waterford Greenway used to be the railway line from Dungarvan to Waterford and was constructed during the 1870’s.

The building of the railway was a remarkable project in that it had to be constructed over very harsh terrain.

From the Dungarvan side, two causeways had to be constructed, one over the Colligan estuary and one through the sea at Barnawee, a very impressive viaduct has to be built at Ballyvoile and an even more impressive tunnel, 480 yards long, fully lined was constructed just a little further down the line.

Another viaduct at Kilminnion and an almost 100 feet high curved viaduct at Kilmacthomas to name just a few.

It headed down towards the lovely station at Kilmeaden and then on the riverbank of the River Suir below Mount Congreve into Waterford City.

Waterford Greenway Bike Hire

Bikes can be rented for €20 (€45 for an electric bike). Bike hire includes bikes fitted to your size, helmet, hi-vis jacket, roadside assistance and shuttle bus service. Waterford Greenway Bike Hire operates from Waterford City, Kilmacthomas and Dungarvan. They have a wide selection of Giant hybrid bikes for both men and women, Kalkoff electric bikes, kids bikes and buggies for children. They are open all year round from 9 am to 6 pm every day. The Greenway Man is another provider operating from Mahony’s Pub in Durrow Co. Waterford. They also offer detailed history tours.

Waterford Greenway Shuttle Bus

If you are renting bikes, there is a free shuttle service included to drop and collect riders from various points along the route (Waterford, Kilmacthomas, Dungarvan). Unfortunately, if you bring your own bikes you can’t avail of this service, so you will either have to do a car drop or turn around and cycle back to your car.

Points of Interest along the Waterford Greenway

Old Red Iron Bridge

Thomas Francis Meagher Bridge

River Suir SAC (Special Area of Conservation)

Woodstown Viking Site

Mount Congreve Gardens

Kilmeadan Castle

Waterford & Suir Valley Heritage Railway

Kilmacthomas Workhouse

Kilmacthomas Viaduct

Cloughlowrish Stone

Durrow Viaduct

Durrow Dancehall

Ballyvoyle Tunnel

Ballyvoyle Viaduct

Dungarvan Bay SPA

St. Augustine’s Church

Dungarvan Castle & WWI Memorial

Walton Park

Waterford City to Kilmacthomas

Top Tips for cycling the Waterford Greenway

Be realistic: If 45km seems a little too ambitious, then you can opt to take on a more manageable section of the route. Covering 10km, the section from Dungarvan to Durrow is particularly lovely.

Packing: Some essentials to pack are a helmet (if you are bringing your own bike), water, snacks, fully charged phone, a light backpack, rain jacket, layers, sunscreen, sunglasses and padded shorts if you are doing the full route.

Be safe: Adhere to the rules of the road even though you are off road; cycle on the left, pass on the right and use your bell.