2023: Drinking, at the Cathedral

Fran and Conal’s big day of sight-seeing ends with a visit to a thousand year old cathedral in the centre of Dublin. Christchurch is traditionally where revelers in Dublin to welcome in the new year. That could lead you into a world of trouble.

**BACK IN TIME:** Christchurch Cathedral was founded in the early 11th century under the Viking king Sitric Silkenbeard. Photo: Conal Healy

Tuesday, October 10, 2023 (Late afternoon): Our tour through Temple Bar took us through Fishamble Street. This street was first laid down by the Viking’s around the 10th century.

It derived its name from the “fish shambles” or stalls which lined the street in the Middle Ages. The street is also famous as the site of the first performance of Handel’s Messiah, which took place in the Bull’s Head Musical Society’s Music Hall on April 13, 1742 before an audience of approximately 700 people.

After a long day of walking, Fran and I stopped to rest our feet and enjoy the late afternoon sunshine. (We had walk almost 19kms by this stage.)

A SPOT OF HISTORY

Christchurch Cathedral was founded in the early 11th century under the Viking king Sitric Silkenbeard. It was rebuilt in stone in the late 12th century under the Norman potentate Strongbow, and considerably enlarged in the early 13th century, using Somerset stones and craftsmen.

**RENO WORK:** The cathedral was extensively renovated and rebuilt in the late 19th century. Photo: Conal Healy

A partial collapse in the 16th century left it in poor shape and the building was extensively renovated and rebuilt in the late 19th century, giving it the form it has today, including the tower, flying buttresses, and distinctive covered footbridge.

The extensive renovation in Victorian times preserved the seriously decayed structure from collapse, but it is now difficult to tell which parts of the interior are medieval and which parts are Victorian imitation.

The cathedral is home to the heart of Saint Laurence O’Toole, a rare copy of the Magna Carta and a remains of a famous chase in the cathedral.

Mummified remains of a cat and a rat which were trapped in an organ pipe in the mid-1800s when the cat was chasing the rat. This is in show in the crypt. They are referred to in James Joyce’s ‘Finnegan’s Wake’ where someone is described as being “…as stuck as that cat to that mouse in that tube of that Christchurch organ…”

Christchurch also contains the largest cathedral crypt (63.4m long) in Britain or Ireland, constructed in 1172–1173.

For me the highlight of the cathedral are the floor tiles. Though there are a number of original tiles dating back to the medieval period, others are later reproductions of the originals, laid down during the large-scale renovations of Christchurch in the late 19th century. The tiles are beautifully artfully designed, and each tells its own story.

STEPPING BACK IN TIME

The last time I was in Christchurch Cathedral (2017) it was possible to climb to the top parts of the building. The view across Dublin is amazing, the tricky part was climbing the narrow staircase and squeezing into the belfry.

As the belfry is only accessible by a narrow spiral staircase containing 86 steps, belfry tours are not suitable for those with reduced mobility, vision impairments, claustrophobia, a fear of heights or children under 12 years. Sensible footwear is required and no large bags are allowed.

I was able to do clambor into the room for the tour. A guide gave a brief history of the bells and we were they invited to ring the bells of Christchurch.

The cathedral’s 19th century bells — the oldest of which dates back to 1738 – range in weight from a quarter of a ton to 2.5 tons. Christ Church has a world record number of bells available for full-circle ringing.

**RING IN**: The belfry of the cathedral pictured in 2017. Photo: Conal Healy

The first mention of bells in Christchurch tower is an entry in the records for the death of John Kyrcham, ‘maker of our bells’, in 1423.

The Christ Church Cathedral Society of Change Ringers was established on July 31, 1670 and still welcomes visitors to join in-service ringing as well as practice sessions.

The first mention of bells in Christ Church tower is an entry in the records for the death of John Kyrcham, ‘maker of our bells’, in 1423.

The Christ Church Cathedral Society of Change Ringers was established on July 31, 1670 and still welcomes visitors to join in-service ringing as well as practice sessions.

TIME TO CELEBRATE

The ringing of the Christchurch bells is forever linked (in my mind) with New Year’s Eve.

Hundreds of revellers would gather outside the cathederal (usually after the pubs shut at 11pm) on December 31, drinks in hand, and party in the street waiting for the bells to announce the arrival of the New Year.

Welcoming in the new year at Christchurch was not without difficulties.

Picture the scene: You’ve spent the evening drinking with friends in the middle of Dublin, you are “feeling no pain”, stagger up to the cathedral and join the crowd of happy revellers. You get swept up in the emotion of the occasion and join in the singing.

Excitement runs through the crowd as the bells of Christchurch Cathedral begin to ring in the new year. Overcome by the occassion, you find yourself being kissed and hugged by a just- off-duty policewoman.

Just at that moment a photographer from the Irish Times steps out of the crowd and captures the happy scene … as the bells continue to ring in the new year.

Later that morning you wake up with a hangover and a fuzzy recollection of the night before, your mother is demanding to know why your photo is on Page one of the Irish Times. And your girlfriend wants to know who is the woman you were kissing in THAT photo. And that is not a good way to start the new year.

BEING AN INSPIRATION

The Christchurch bells have inspired songwriters – check out The Househouse Flowers song of the same name:

Sunsets over the city, clouds are rising
And you can see clear up to the night time sky
And if you’re feeling precious, you want to do well
Think of others, ask for a prayer underneath Christchurch bells

Or the U2 song Celebration:

I believe in the bells of Christchurch
Ringing for this land

Back in 2017, I was privileged to step up and ring the bells.

In my mind’s eyes, I could see the musical notes drift across the city of Dublin, and into the ears of people going about their day.

Maybe my notes – carried on the wind – would provoke a memory, spark a thought, or inspire an idea. Maybe.

With this idea in mind – connecting with people by ring bells – myself and Fran entered the cathedral in the late afternoon. We paid the small admission fee, only to be told that the belfrey tour wasn’t available on that day.

Disappointed, I sat in a pew drank in the scene. It was nice to sit in a church that dated back a thousand years.

We toured the cathderal, explored the crypt (which is packed with history) and stepped out into the autumn sunshine.

It was fitting that a day that had started with a walk in the gardens of Powerscourt House should end in the centre of Dublin. We walked away, the bells of the cathedral ringing in our ears.

A VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL